Cape Town

by Zoe Greenbank

Although I left Cape Town when I was a child, I have returned to see the family that remain there many times. These return journeys have allowed me to reflect on the glorious experiences that I had there and share them with others. With my next trip coming up next year, I now have the exciting opportunity to share the precious memories that I have of my childhood with my other half (who hasn’t ever been to this part of the world).

Cape Town, and South Africa in general has a complicated history marred with racial prejudice and inequality which means many have preconceived ideas about this city before they have ever set foot there. Nowadays, the problems facing this country are more of an ecological nature such as the limited amount of water and energy available for people to use.  And yet, when explored, anyone can discover little hidden gems tucked away within its walls, waiting to be found, and dismiss any biased opinion. It is in these wonderful places that the most treasured memories of my childhood took place and these that I cannot wait to share with my other half.

The main place that I cannot wait to show him is Kirstenbosch. This botanical garden stretches for many kilometres and holds just about every kind of plant and flower imaginable to man. It is so beautiful to take a stroll around and look at all of the colours – especially when the backdrop to this idyllic haven is Table Mountain itself! I used to come here as a girl and spend hours fishing for tadpoles in the stream that winds its way through the garden like a snake stretching across the desert. This stream is also the place where I learnt to climb the trees lining the sides of the water—to a child they seemed so tall they could reach the sky! When I returned as a teenager and an adult, my grandfather and I used to spend ages rediscovering our old bolt holes and reliving a funny memory. You can do anything at Kirstenbosch—bring a picnic and enjoy it with loved ones on the huge, deep green lawns in the brilliant sunshine; go shopping for trinkets or homeware—an activity that my Grandma could never miss; or attend one of the many events that they put on there. For example, they have an open air cinema showing a wide variety of films (I can imagine nothing better than lying on a picnic blanket, glass of South African wine in hand, watching a film as the sun sets) or at Christmas, Kirstenbosch hosts Carols by Candlelight which was always a particular favourite of mine. As a child, it seemed so magical to sing lots of Christmas carols as the sun went down on a nice hot day and the hundreds of candles take over as the focus of light in the whole place—this was particularly breathtaking when singing ‘Star of Wonder, Star of Light’.

As I move from one special memory to the next, I also move to the next destination. This is probably the most iconic as it is always in the background of any photograph, as though protecting the city from any foe—Table Mountain. I have gone up the mountain on many occasions with my family. Although it’s very windy when you step out of the revolving cable car, the view more than makes up for any ruined hairdo! From this vantage point, you can see every inch of Cape Town: my home. If the day is clear, you can even see Robben Island in the distance (where Nelson Mandela spent 18 years in prison before his release in 1992). On my return journeys to Cape Town this always seemed like a brilliant place to clear my head, think and get some perspective on anything going on in my life, many years later it would be the place where my grandad chose to have his ashes scattered. I like that this is his resting place—looking over all of us (and rolling his eyes as well I’m sure!)

Cape Point is another unbelievably beautiful nature reserve, cushioned by two of the sandiest beaches I’ve ever been on in my life. When I was a girl, my brother dared me to test out the water as it looked ‘lovely’—a decision I instantly regretted as the water in the Atlantic Ocean was so cold it made my ankles ache! However, I later discovered that the other beach is met by the Indian Ocean and therefore much warmer (I was less than impressed!) The main thing to watch out for at Cape Point though, apart from which  ocean you’re dipping your toes into, is the monkey population—if your food is tasty enough or they like the look of a particular possession of yours, they will have it off you quicker than you can blink! And as my Grandma says, ‘once it’s gone, it’s gone!’.

St. James Beach is another diamond of my childhood and one that I return to with a heart filled with joy and usually a tear or two in my eye. Staying out of the sea is something that myself and my brother have never ever managed. We’re always the first ones running towards it, swimming cozies and sunblock on—or not, which left my poor mother trying (mostly in vain) to coax us out of the water that we loved so much. This beach is quite a long one so there is plenty of space to relax and read a book, or enjoy a picnic without feeling like you’re on top of another family! However, the most memorable aspect of this beach is that it is lined with the most colourful, interesting beach huts imaginable. These little shelters are completely unique and very pretty to look at—something my brother and I always used to do when we were playing in the small rock pools that populate some areas where the sand meets the water.

There are many wonderful, golden sandy beaches in Cape Town to relax on, and then you come across an oddity like Boulders Beach. Boulders is another example of a fantastic sandy beach, except this one has a big difference... penguins! This beach is where the penguins have built their lives. When it gets too hot for them, they either go into their dug out burrows or take a dip in the sea, however, when they are hungry and can’t catch fish quickly enough in the ocean, they have been known to walk right off the beach and into the kitchens of neighbouring houses to get a bite. That was an image that always used to make me laugh—someone with a broom in hand trying to shoo a penguin out the door! People can go and walk around on this beach though—there have been special gangways built so that tourists don’t disturb the animals and can observe their way of life safely.

The V&A Waterfront is the South African equivalent of a British shopping mall, except with one major difference—this one is right on the water! The Waterfront is huge and lined with restaurants and cafes that have the stunning backdrop of the water with all the boats on it (how could anyone have a boring, dull lunch here?). My Grandma and I spent many days wandering around the shopping centre, exploring all the clothes and jewellery shops (my favourite aspect of this place!), and with the exchange rate what it was, my excuse was always ‘well why not indulge…’ My credit card statement was always a later reminder… There are also theme park-esque games out the front for children who need to run off any energy before lunch or dinner—something my brother always needed to do before being able to sit still!

These are the few absolute must-sees of this glorious city, however, there are many more that remain unmentioned, like the vineyards which are huge and make you regret the limitations placed on your luggage! I cannot wait to return to my childhood home and hopefully help my other half to love this place just as much as I do. Would I ever return to live there? I don’t think so. But in my opinion, there is nothing wrong with having such a glorious bolt hole to return to on holiday as often as we are able. ■

Adventure

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